CBD hotspot Tras Street has no shortage of amazing drinking and dining concepts. Yet at newly opened Shin Terroir, a 10-seater grilled meat-focused omakase restaurant, their addition to the scene has been a more than welcome one.
The first thing that intrigues us is their entrance. Rather than welcoming guests from the main street, they’ve purposely chosen to use their alleyway entrance instead, turning the usually neglected back door into a hidden access point.
Past a big shady tree and a stone pathway guiding you through a small garden, you’ll arrive at Shin Terroir’s dimly-lit main dining space. Here, the open kitchen, helmed by chef duo Nicholas Lee and Takeshi Nakayama, dishes out masterful binchotan-kissed creations.
The Singaporean and the Hokkaido native make full use of a custom-made three-tier grill from Osaka to produce sublime eats cooked over Kishu binchotan. This king of all charcoal is revered for its clean burning qualities and ability to achieve searing temperatures while also having great heat retention.
Currently, it’s a 15-course prix fixe menu (S$198) being offered at Shin Terroir. There’s a good mix of traditional and contemporary eats here, sprinkled with a few surprises in between.
It’s not all grilled dishes either. The first dish, a luscious Chawanmushi, bursts with umami and flavours from the sea, thanks to good use of a kombu dashi, uni, and snow crab. The second dish is the first from the grill. The Yakionigiri, a playful delight of charcoal toasted rice served with fatty tuna belly, is topped with a mound of Iranian caviar for a briny oomph.
Meanwhile, the Sakana – a hearty dish of soft daikon sitting in a pool of oden broth and topped with a grilled kinmedai fillet – comes right before a series of yakitori dishes. It’s a great prelude to the first skewer, the Otoukome. This stick of chicken breast is incredibly juicy and works amazingly with the ume kosho and shiso accompaniments.
Next comes a signature item, the Mille Feuille. Not your average skewer, this is actually a layered creation containing chicken gizzard and chives draped in chicken skin which crispens when grilled, resulting in an alluring combination of textures and flavours with each bite.
Another dish worth highlighting is the Reba, or chicken liver, that’s seared to your preferred doneness. Served with an accompaniment of cookie crumble, this unorthodox pairing surprisingly works, and is one of several surprises the chefs have introduced into the course.
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There are plenty more to discover, such as the highly indulgent Miyazaki wagyu course and even a much-welcome Ramen dish that is the very definition of comforting – but we’ll leave those for you to experience on your own.
What’s interesting to us as well is the exceptional drinks list, plus, having a sommelier on-site who knows how to perfectly pair the items. Sake fans will be spoiled for choice with their premium selection, such as with the Ohmine 2 Grain, which worked wonders with many of the grilled yakitori items.
Oenophiles will be pleased to know that Shin Terroir specialties in bottles from Burgundy and Champagne. The wine list comprises over 150 curated selections, with hard-to-get artisanal producers also being featured. It’s nice too that there is a private lounge area where guests can simply come for some pre and post dinner drinks.
With its accessible price point (for a 15-course meal), hearty grilled offerings, soft aesthetic touches, and vast selection of sought-after wines and sake, Shin Terroir is shaping up to be the next Tras Street hotspot.
Shin Terroir is located at 80 Tras Street, Singapore 079019.
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About the Author
Dannon Har is the Managing Editor of Spill. Discovering his innate gift for drinking only at a ripe age, he spares no time trying to find more delicious drops to imbibe during his time on Earth. When he’s not minding every detail at Spill, he spends his time concocting luscious libations and sharing them with folks that visit his home bar.