There is a reason why Equatorial SG – a semi-fine concept on Duxton Road specialising in pan-Asian cuisine as well as binchotan and warayaki dishes – has recently found a special place in my heart.
I was first sold by the idea that it’s co-founded by some of Singapore’s heavyweights in the alcohol space. There’s Adrian Goh, a pioneer in sakes here and currently holding the title of being Singapore’s first Sake Samurai; there’s Justin Herson, a pioneer in the mead space and co-founder of Lion City Meadery; and Stefan Koh, brewer and founder of local craft beer brand District Brewers.
Knowing that the founders themselves appreciate drinks is important. This tells me that at Equatorial, the appreciation of craft beverages is high, and prices are likely to be of value as well given that they are distributors and brand owners themselves.
Then there’s a fourth and final co-founder, who rounds out the equation nicely with his experience in the kitchen. Caleb Ang cut his teeth at innovative venues around town that are known for both food and drink, making him kinda the perfect person to connect the dots between the kitchen and the bar.
Given the pedigree of the founders, I presumed that both drink and food will be highly complementary, and boy was I proven right.
Take a starter dish, the Smashed Grilled Sheep Horn Pepper with Century Egg (S$15), served alongside bejinjau crisps, for instance. A highly unorthodox dish, it would not have seemed to work on paper, but does in real life. The best part? It paired real nice with a pint of District Brewers pilsner.
The aged sashimi here, a specialty of chef Ang, is another highlight. Aged for up to 2.5 months to intensify flavour, they tend to go well with the meads, sakes and whites on the menu. Lion City Meadery’s Spiced Mead was a surprisingly yummy combo.
Whether you’re getting the luxurious Dry Aged Bluefin Maguro (S$48-$98) or the punchy Binchotan Skin Grilled Madai Sashimi (S$28), the raw seafood items here are all creatively presented, with chef utilising a variety of sauces and garnishes – think roasted tea, cured egg yolk, and sliced truffle – to enhance and complement the aged sashimi.
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My favourite items come from the binchotan grill section. The Rendang Serundeng Beef (S$48), made using an assortment of wagyu and Argentine ribeye cuts, goes well with reds and whisky, and is, to us, an amazing bar snack / main. The generous portion might seem overwhelming at first, but you’ll quickly find the moreish dish emptying alongside your glass.
Still, it’s the Matcha Curry Grilled Masala Chicken (S$28), another dish that would not have seemed workable on paper, that has me convinced that there is still so much creative room in the kitchen to explore.
When the large whole chicken leg arrived drenched in sauce made from green ceremonial matcha, I was stunned. I thought the matcha would have been used in a subtle manner, which would have been the safe bet. But this bold move completely works. All you need is a glass of sake to wash down the heaviness between bites.
While I don’t often go for desserts, it will be remiss not to give the Kaya Toast Mascarpone Cheesecake (S$11) a mention. Tasting familiar to anyone who has had the eponymous Singaporean breakfast item before, this elevated take is at once comforting and intriguing, and not a simple creation for novelty’s sake.
Too often, pan-Asian cuisine only incorporates Japanese, Chinese and Korean dining sensibilities, but at Equatorial, Singaporean, Malayan, and Indian elements shine too. This is a much-deserved kudos to the team, as the creative risk definitely paid off.
Personally, I am just happy that they place an equal emphasis on food and drink, and that the outcome is a happy marriage of both. More venues can take a leaf from Equatorial SG’s understated playbook.
Equatorial SG is located at 60A Duxton Road, #02-01, S089524.
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About the Author
Dannon Har is the Managing Editor of Spill. Discovering his innate gift for drinking only at a ripe age, he spares no time trying to find more delicious drops to imbibe during his time on Earth. When he’s not minding every detail at Spill, he spends his time concocting luscious libations and sharing them with folks that visit his home bar.